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In this blog, we make a carport ourselves with the products of Wovar! A carport protects your cars from the elements. Your cars are therefore dry all year round and are protected against dirt, dust, falling branches, rain, and hail. The shade of the carport also ensures that the car can remain pleasantly cool in summer. A carport also gives your house a higher value, so it is definitely worth the investment. A carport can be built in a few hours, the most important thing is to make the right foundation. Concrete foundations are generally the best way to give a structure the right foundation. In the blog Placing a Concrete Pier, we take you step-by-step through the process of how to place a concrete base.
Please note: These concrete piers are only available on our .nl site due to their size and weight. We are working towards making them available in other countries as well. Thank you for your patience.
Supplies for making your own Carport
- Six thick 150x150 mm uprights Douglas wood
- Two ring beams
- Six roof beams
- roof decking
- Angled braces
- Bracing for temporary strength
- Concrete bases 15 x 15 cm
- quick cement
- wood auger drills
- Coach Screws
- Deck Screws
- Corner Brackets
- Adjustable Elevated Post Bases
- EPDM Adhesives
- roof trim
- roof trim angle
- roof terminal
- cordless drill
- Long spirit level
- folding ladder
- glue clamp
- crosscut saw
- Circular saw
- Sharp chisel hammer
- Coarse-toothed file
Building a Carport
We assume that the concrete bases for the foundation have already been laid in this blog. If you want to know how to place concrete footings, you can visit our blog about placing concrete footings. Concrete foundations are much better than sticking the wood bare in the ground. Untreated wood types rot quickly when they go into the ground bare. It would be a shame to waste the money you invest in a new carport by not taking the proper steps to build a durable structure. When you place concrete footings for the foundation of a carport, it is a good idea to place the front concrete footings slightly higher than at the back, so that the water runs nicely in one direction and can disappear with a roof terminal.
You can then start tightening the wooden uprights. The concrete bases protrude slightly above the ground. For the best appearance, it is best to screw the uprights completely into the base. When it has been screwed in, you can level and secure the upright using an angled brace, in order to continue with the next upright. Build the uprights further and further by placing an angled brace from the bottom of the first upright to the top of the next upright to give the construction some temporary strength during construction.
In this way, we continue to build. The reason that we place an oblique brace from the bottom of one upright to the top of another upright is that there is no more play at the bottom. The upright is fixed at the bottom on the concrete base and will not just pull it to the left or right. At the top, there is a chance that the upright can move a little to the left and right due to, for example, the wind and the play. With oblique braces, you create strength in the wooden construction, so that placing the ring beams is easier. When all six uprights are on the concrete feet, with slanted braces in between the uprights, we place three more horizontal beams so that we have made a nice solid whole.
When the uprights are level, we can proceed with placing the ring beams. To do this, we must first provide the uprights with a notch on which the ring beam will rest. The notches on the ring beams must match on both sides so that the roof beams are positioned correctly. For every project, measuring is knowing. Measure beforehand where the notches should be and how big they should be, so that the ring beams fit between them. When the ring beam is in place, we must first pre-drill a hole that is at least 10 mm thick for the carriage bolts that attach the ring beam to the upright. First, pre-drill a hole in the ring beam with a hose drill† Then remove the ring beam from the upright, so that you can pre-drill completely through the post. Then you can put the carriage bolts in the holes and tap them in firmly with a hammer. At the back, you can place a nut, so that the carriage bolt stays in place.
Carports can be built at home or detached. In this blog, we only discuss a detached carport. We proceed to assemble the angled braces. The struts we use are one meter long and should be cut 45 degrees towards each other at both ends. You can use both a crosscut saw and a circular saw for this. We fix the slanted braces with coach screws. For convenience, it is best to work the braces on the ground beforehand. You do this by pre-drilling and screwing the wood threaded bolts into the wood. Then you don't have to hold the brace with one hand and turn the bolts with the other. With preparation, the braces are also made to measure and you can place the braces more easily and easily. Only when all the braces and the roof beams have been mounted can you start removing the temporary sloping and horizontal battens.
We continue with the installation of the roof beams. At the ends of the roof beams, you should mark and make notches so that they can fit right into the notch of the ring beams. These notches should be 6 inches (15 cm) from the ends of the roof beams and be 5 inches wide. First, turn the bar on its side. Make several cuts in the measured notch with a circular saw and then tap out the notch with a sharp chisel. The surface does not have to be completely flat and can remain quite rough because we see nothing of it when the beam comes to lie on the ring beam. Each roof beam needs two notches. You can then place them over the ring beams.
Next, we remove the horizontal intermediate beams. We leave the slanted braces in place for a while and only remove them when we have anchored the roof beams to the ring beams. You can press down on the roof beams after removing the intermediate beams and you will see how nicely they fit into the ring beams. We use L-shaped corners to support the roof beams. We fix the so-called L fitting with screws measuring 4 x 40 mm. Drive four screws into the ring beam and four screws into the roof beam, so that the beams are fixed together.
When the ring beams are firmly attached to the roof beams, we can continue with the roof boarding. For this, we use double lip profiles of 18 mm thick. First, we fasten the plank to the roof beams with two deck screws. We first fix the next plank with 1 screw, so that we can move it if the plank doesn't look right at first sight. If the next plank is in the right position, we screw in a second screw. We do this over the entire length of the roof boarding so that it can be attached to the roof in a neat alignment.
Carport with EPDM Roof
After placing the roof boarding, we will place the buoy parts. These must be cut to size so that the entire circumference of the carport is nicely covered. The longest side of the fascia sections must be attached to the front side of the roof beams. We use longer screws of 5 by 100 mm for this, so that they stick quite a distance into the end grain. At the top of the fascia, you need to use a bobbin with a height of five centimeters, so that we create a kind of bathtub effect on the roof boarding. Then the water can flow down the right side of the roof. We will soon finish the roof boarding with EPDM.
With the five-centimeter raised edge, we have a bathtub on the roof, so that the water can only run off at your roof duct. This is also a good basis for the EPDM. The roof boarding should slope approximately one centimeter per meter so that the water can run backward. Roll out the EPDM rubber, making sure that there are about 40 centimeters of EPDM foil left on all edges of your roof decking. Then let it rest for 10 minutes. Then fold half of the EPDM back over the other side of the roof, so that half of the roof is exposed again. Coat the free half with glue. This glue dries after 30 minutes, giving you plenty of time to properly lay the EPDM. After smearing one half, you can sweep away any imperfections with a soft broom. Then fold the other half over the smeared part and repeat the process.
When the entire surface has been smeared and the irregularities have been gently wiped out, it is time for the edges. Fold back the edges of the EPDM rubber and spray them well with contact glue together with the edges on the wooden roof decking. Fold the foil back and press firmly. For the roof terminal, you must cut a round hole in the roof, which has a slightly larger diameter than the roof terminal. Cut the part of the hole neatly in the EPDM. Then coat the edge of the roof terminal with EPDM sealant 2 cm from the inside and 1 cm from the outside. This creates two circles with EPDM sealant, both on the inside and outside. Then you can place the lead-through in the hole and press the foil down well.
You can use different colored aluminum profiles to finish the edges. These are easy to assemble and provide a nice sleek appearance.
After installation, you are the owner of a brand new beautiful carport! As a result, your car is protected against the elements and the investment immediately translates into added value for your home. We hope this guide got you started building your own DIY carport. Also, stay tuned for our other DIY blogs from this new series! These blogs will be published on our blog website at fixed times in the near future. Also let us know if you have succeeded in building a carport with this manual, or what you encountered so that we can help you with it.